I board an early morning train to Puka. No Estonian seems to have heard of it, especially the sceptical lady at the ticket counter. But it is on the map and I show it to her.
We pass through a deep fog, mist on the windows. Outside, empty fields, some abandoned; wells with hand pumps.
At Puka the sun is now out, and I get off for what should be a 20km walk to Otepää. Puka is what is known in fairytales as a hamlet, so big chestnut trees, piles of wood, but no food and nowhere for a traveller to sleep:
The road on Google maps is a now thin gray line that occasionally disappears. I pass old farmhouses with stone walls, wooden barns.
The road then narrows, the forest closes in. A riot of birdsong. I have done 25km of a 20km route, and am nowhere in sight of anything. Have taken a wrong turn somewhere. The Google maps satellite appears to be pointed at Mars. It is hotter than I thought, I have run out of water, and am now very thirsty.
But this is a friendly land. Five more kilometres and I meet a man working his fields. He gives me a deep drink and refills my containers. But, in the reserved manner of Estonians, shows no curiosity as to why I am in the middle of rural nowhere, walking, and with no water.
Another 6km, and there is a lake on the left, and a lake on the right. Pines, firs, super green grass. Nesting storks. Evening. Otepää.