Somewhere, I own at least 8 gray suits and 16 crisp white cotton shirts. But the woman looks at me doubtfully and gives me soap. 13 Sep 2013
No Estonian seems to have heard of Puka, especially the sceptical lady at the ticket counter. But it is on the map and I show it to her. 7 Sep 2013
People in twos and threes planting, raking. Raking the graves of a generation, mine. 29 Aug 2013
I persuade an Estonian officer who owns a kebab house to make me a fishburger. 12 Aug 2013
Landlady asks for money upfront. Later she tells me the reason: "You look like a man with no money". 28 July 2013
Tallinn emerges from the winter snow as Estonia emerges from 800 years of subservience. 10 July 2013
I regret my there is no tuxedo in my backpack. The evenings here really call for a dinner suit. 15 June 2013
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